by Barbara Collier
Wednesday November 12, 2008, 9:38 AM
JIM OLEXA/SUN NEWS
Chef Asta Staniskis shows Europa's, clockwise from center top, Salmon a la Asta, blinis, Russian style pork, and stuffed eggplant with ricotta and walnuts.
Russian cuisine seems an increasingly popular trend, especially on the East Side. I know of at least four restaurants with owners offering an assortment of Russian and Mediterranean food. That includes my latest find, Restaurant Europa, at 30519 Pinetree Road in Pepper Pike's Landerwood Plaza.
The location at Lander Circle for years belonged to the Lion & Lamb Restaurant, but it's long closed. Tannour later moved until reputed partnership problems forced closing. The most recent, Joe Foodie, seemed to close overnight.
I'm happy to report that the sophisticated worldly atmosphere at Europa, as well as its unique and terrific food, makes a strong case for outlasting them all put together.
One owner, Alex Shneyder, lived in Siberia for 30 years before moving to "warmer" Moscow. He came here 18 years ago and opened the Russian Tea Room party center.
Next was Europa, opened in August and now featuring its unique and recently completed "Vodka Room."
Shneyder built the "Vodka Room" inside Europa to offer "a little bit of Siberia" to guests. The small enclosed room's temperature is maintained at about 35 degrees. A guest's choice of vodka ($3) is delivered in an iced shot glass through a small porthole opening to the bar.
Don't worry about freezing. The management offers "temporary" fur coats and hats to ward off the chills.
Darijus and Asta Staniskis, the husband-and-wife chefs who are owners/partners with Shneyder, hail from Lithuania. Their European training is evident in the nice selection of food with Russian influence, though steaks, simple seafood, and burgers also are available.
Lunch and dinner menus are almost the same, save for a few evening additions with larger servings and higher prices.
The blinis platter ($7.50) offers a choice of three fillings. Since three are served at lunch, we opted for one of each. The "pancakes" were tender and of the fillings, the mushroom, onions and egg was best. The blinis are served with sour cream rosettes.
We had to try the Europa take on borscht ($5). The hot beet-based soup blended slivers and chunks of beets with tomatoes, mushrooms and other vegetables for a wonderful flavor.
Our positively perfect server, Tony, brought warm bread and Europa's signature spreads: whipped cream cheese with pecans, olive butter and plain whipped butter.
It's difficult to choose an entree because so many sound so good. We decided on the roasted rosemary chicken breast with mashed potatoes ($9 lunch) and Russian-style pork ($11 lunch), with wild mushroom sauce and fresh home-style potatoes.
The "airline"-style breast that extends to include a portion of the upper wing is considered the most desirable part of the chicken for flavor. Accented with fresh rosemary, it's slow-roasted so perfectly that a gentle knife stroke is all that's needed.
Steamed fresh mini-carrots are served alongside fresh kale for garnish. The mashed potatoes are fluffy, flavorful and satiny.
The luncheon serving of the Russian-style pork brings a thin slice of boneless pork loin, dipped in egg batter and sauteed. A light wild-mushroom sauce is the finishing touch to the moist, tasty pork.
Accompanying sauteed potatoes are sliced scallop-style, then browned perfectly. Steamed broccoli and mini-carrots come beside the pork.
Two other entrees caught my eye: stuffed cabbage ($7) and lamb pilaf ($7).
Reservations are suggested, especially on Saturday, by calling (216) 591-1273. Hours at Restaurant Europa are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, 4-10 p.m. Saturday and 4-9 p.m. Sunday.